One in every of 273 Grasp Sommeliers worldwide at present, Evan Goldstein has written 4 books, co-authored a number of extra, and is a contributing editor to The Oxford Companion to Wine. In September 2022, Goldstein was recruited by the San Francisco Giants, his hometown professional baseball group, turning into the primary ever Grasp Sommelier to work for a US skilled sports activities organisation.
Sadly, this wealthy, honeyed grape selection is disappearing from the vineyards of Hermitage and different appellations within the northern Rhône the place it as soon as held courtroom. However Roussanne is a grape it is best to know. Amazingly, despite the fact that it comes throughout as wealthy and unique, with an obvious lack of construction, it will possibly maintain that pose for years… with out botox!
Roussanne’s roots lie within the central Rhône valley. Exactly when it originated just isn’t identified, however the grape’s newer historical past is effectively documented. Within the mid-Twentieth century, lots of the plantings in France turned contaminated with fanleaf virus and had been changed with the much less fascinating however extra resilient and constant Marsanne.
True Roussanne was believed to have arrived in California within the Eighties, however the authentic supply of California Roussanne turned out to be Viognier. It’s evident that even in as we speak’s world of recent genetic testing and thoroughly propagated cuttings, one mistake in sourcing a varietal sort can have far-reaching penalties. Not till the Nineties had been actual cuttings of Roussanne planted.
Labour of affection
Roussanne is thought to be uneconomical to supply as a result of it’s finicky about rising situations: it isn’t a big cropper and is vulnerable to rot and mildew. And to prime it off, the berries ripen late, making rot an excellent greater danger.
In distinction to the problem offered within the winery, Roussanne is versatile and forgiving within the cellar. It may be efficiently fermented in massive or small oak, stainless-steel or concrete. It may be harvested at decrease sugars however nonetheless have ample physique, or may be left to extend in ripeness with out shedding all its acidity. It might probably sing solo or play effectively with its family members (Marsanne, Rolle, Viognier, and many others). Lastly, Roussanne ages very effectively resulting from its uncommon mixture of richness, minerality and balancing acidity; one of the best wines may be loved as much as 15 years or extra after bottling.
When Roussanne sings with meals, that tune typically jogs my memory of Viognier. As with Viognier, its food-friendliness is underrated. The most effective wines are wealthy, silky and balanced, with a panoply of tropical and ripe stone fruit flavours. I really like Roussanne with unique dishes, from north African tagines to pork marinated in cumin and ginger.
If the flavours in your dish are much less exuberant, use textures that can decide up on the richer texture of the wine. Thick and creamy soups, slow-cooked root greens (like parsnips and carrots), wealthy cream- and butter-infused pastas and grains (risotto, polenta), oily nuts (particularly macadamias and cashews), and richer preparations of fish, shellfish and white meats – all are nice tablemates for Roussanne and Roussanne-based blends.
Uncover Roussanne: Goldstein’s two to attempt
Château de Campuget, 1753 Roussanne Sans Sulfites, Rhône 2021 (campuget.com) From third-generation Campuget winemaker Franck-Lin Dalle, that is bottled as an IGP (by French AP regulation, to be labelled as Costières de Nîmes wines have to be blends). It demonstrates what pure Roussanne can ship in a pure atmosphere – native yeast ferment, no added sulphur, and totally expressive deliciousness of the range.
Tablas Creek, Roussanne, Paso Robles, California 2020 (tablascreek.com) This classic is coincidentally the vineyard’s Twentieth varietal bottling of its most important white grape. Jason Haas’ heroic dedication to Rhône grapes in California’s Central Coast is admirable and main. This Roussanne is attribute, with balanced weight, texture and fragrant complexity.
