Whereas we’re within the midst of planning our full line-up of occasions for 2023, we glance again on the extraordinary dinners and tastings hosted by our sister firm, FINE+RARE, final yr – with highlights together with verticals of Pétrus, Rayas, Harlan and Comtes Lafon’s Montrachet
Magical Merlot: Pétrus
The ultimate occasion of 2022 and arguably essentially the most spectacular was a line-up of 20 vintages of Pétrus again to 1947. With particular visitor William Kelley to speak friends by way of the wines, this was a momentous event, not just for the wines but in addition as a result of it was the final ever occasion held in TheRitz lodge’s historic William Kent Room, earlier than this magnificent, London landmark underwent a two-year renovation.
The final flight of the night was exceptional – with arguably the best vintages of Pétrus ever produced, the 1989, 1990 and an unfathomably uncommon magnum of 1947. The 1990, 1989 and 1947 have been the most popular vintages on report in Bordeaux on the time – and clearly proved useful for Pétrus – whose distinct terroir produced three wines of extraordinary complexity. Critic Robert Parker concluded – after tasting it on 11 totally different events – that the 1947 Pétrus is the “wine of the century”, fairly some accolade. Regardless of the joy round this trio, the highest wines of the night have been the 2012, 2010, 2009 and 2006 which actually stood out for his or her unimaginable depth, magnificence and focus.
The wines, paired with seven luxurious programs ready by Govt Head Chef John Williams MBE made for an unforgettable finish to 2022.
FULL LINE-UP
- Champagne Henri Giraud, MV10, Grand Cru (in magnum)
- 1982 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Clos de la Mouchère, Domaine Henri Boillot
- Pétrus vertical: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 1990, 1989, 1947 (from magnum)
Castello Di Ama’s L’apparita and La Ricolma Versus Percarlo
Pétrus was not the one iconic Merlot to function final yr. Each L’Apparita (the 100% Merlot from Castello di Ama) and La Ricolma – (San Giusto a Rentennano’s equal) have each change into wine icons in their very own proper and superbly showcase the extraordinary complexity that this grape can obtain within the hills of Chianti.
Each La Ricolma and L’Apparita began as experiments however, as soon as every of those neighboring estates (though at fully totally different altitudes) acquired a deal with on this French import, the outcomes have been extraordinary.
The Castello di Ama and San Guisto a Rentennano occasions each occurred at London’s personal Italian icon – The River Café. With Ruth Rogers and her group curating the right menu to companion these excellent wines, it made for 2 very particular evenings.
For the exceptional L’Apparita occasion, we tasted a vertical again to 1985 – the first-ever classic of the wine, and considered one of solely six bottles remaining on the property. Alongside this particular wine (which it was a privilege to style), highlights of the night time included the 2018 and distinctive 1995.
FULL LINE-UP:
- Champagne Henri Giraud, MV10, Grand Cru (in magnum)
- 2020 Al Poggio Chardonnay di Toscana
- L’Apparita vertical: 2018, 2015, 2010, 2009, 2007, 2004, 2000, 1998, 1992, 1988, 1985
On the San Guisto a Rentennano dinner, La Ricolma was pitted towards its Sangiovese sibling Percarlo, in a taste-off spanning 1998 to 2007. It was unimaginable to choose a winner, but it surely was the consistency of the wines that actually shone by way of. They have been all emotionally charged stunners – significantly 2007 La Ricolma and 2006 Percarlo.
FULL LINE-UP:
- Champagne Henri Giraud, MV10, Grand Cru (in magnum)
- 2021 Fuori Misura Rosato, San Giusto a Rentennano, Tuscany
- Percarlo vertical: 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 1998 (all in magnum)
- La Ricolma vertical: 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004 (all in magnum)
- 1997 Vin San Giusto, Passito, San Giusto a Rentennano, Tuscany
Exploring the Legend: Ch. Rayas 1990-2011
The Rhône was properly represented, with a once-in-a-lifetime vertical of Ch. Rayas – the paranormal Châteaunuef-du-Pape property that has few friends within the wonderful wine world. With William Kelley co-hosting, the tasting included 19 vintages of this uncommon, unique magnificence.
A lot to everybody’s shock, it was the so-called “off-vintages”, years that may be deemed “lesser”, that have been essentially the most spectacular – it was in these bottlings that the singularity of Rayas shone by way of, over-riding the character of the appellation or yr.
The 2008 (given “solely” 93 factors by Parker again in 2012, upgraded from its unique 90 in 2010) was the wine of the night time for most individuals. Against this, the top-rated 2009 from a blockbuster classic was spectacular, but the classic ever so barely masked the Rayas model – making the wine really feel extra like one other (superb) Châteauneuf-du-Pape. General, the wines confirmed a simple timelessness.
Tasting by way of this line-up was an absolute privilege; for these rightly revered, uncommon wines are unimaginable. With no new oak, they’re all concerning the purity and high quality of fruit. They present distinctive longevity, an ethereality and simple grace that mesmerizes.
FULL LINE-UP:
- Champagne Henri Giraud, MV10, Grand Cru (in magnum)
- Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc vertical: 1999, 2004, 2006
- Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape vertical:2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1994, 1990
Harlan: Napa’s Iconic Cabernet
One other icon, this time from the opposite aspect of the pond, was explored in our occasion with Napa’s Harlan, an property that has led the cost in terms of planting vineyards above the valley flooring.
When first established, Harlan took a considerable threat, shopping for uncultivated land at the next altitude that had by no means been planted to vines. The hillsides of Napa are largely unsuitable for cultivation, both too steep or too rocky for vines to take root. Harlan’s vines generally have lower than a foot of topsoil to burrow into earlier than hitting the bedrock. This mix of soils, a number of exposures, the drainage of those hillside plots and the altitude all assist produce a wine of singular character.
Tasting 11 vintages of this extraordinary wine, from the early days by way of to the current, was an insightful journey into considered one of Napa’s most advanced terroirs. The favorites of the night time needed to be the 2006 and 1994, however the landmark vintages corresponding to 2018, 2013 and 2001 have been unsurprisingly show-stopping.
FULL LINE-UP:
- Champagne Henri Giraud, MV10, Grand Cru (in magnum)
- 2018 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, Henri Boillot (in magnum)
- Harlan vertical: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2013, 2010, 2006, 2001, 1997, 1996, 1993
Champagne Takes Middle Stage: Henri Giraud’s Arg̈onne
World-class Champagne producers have been additionally well-serviced within the 2022 occasions calendar. A vertical of Arg̈onne – Henri Giraud’s high cuvée – was a masterclass in oak-matured Champagne.
Arg̈onne is known as after the oak forest that defines the wine. Solely made in distinctive vintages, it’s a very particular, age-worthy Champagne that’s 100% fermented and aged in Argonne oak that winemaker Sébastien le Golvet hand picks from the forest. As soon as remodeled right into a barrel he then customized toasts the barrels to go well with the classic traits.
Sébastien le Golvet – son-in-law to founder Claude Giraud – is consistently experimenting. After making wine at Giraud for over 20 years, he believes the oak helps retain stress within the wines, permitting them to raised specific the Aÿ terroir. The proficient winemaker believes that the toast stage is integral to the wine’s ensuing model.
It was an interesting tasting and the way in which this wine develops with age is extraordinary. The highlights of the night have been the 2008 Argonne for its depth, richness and steadiness, but in addition the 2011 Blanc de Blancs, which was pure precision, richness and managed depth.
FULL LINE-UP:
- Champagne Henri Giraud, MV07
- 2019 and 2009 Coteaux Champenois, Aÿ Blanc, Grand Cru, Henri Giraud
- 2011 and 2002 Champagne Henri Giraud, Blanc de Blancs
- 2012 Champagne Henri Giraud, Arg̈onne Rosé
- Arg̈onne vertical: 2014, 2008, 2004, 2002 Champagne Henri Giraud, Arg̈onne
- 2000 Champagne Henri Giraud, Fût de Chêne d’Arg̈onne
- 1995 Champagne Henri Giraud, Fût de Chêne
- Ratafia Champenois Solera 90-16, Henri Giraud (17%)
Taittinger’s Comtes De Champagne
Everybody who tries Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne appears to be instantly seduced by it. We felt such a crowd-pleaser deserved centre stage and we invited Taittinger’s Chef de Cave Alexandre Ponnavoy to London to elucidate the magic behind what is sort of everybody’s favourite Blanc de Blancs.
The Champagne is known as after the sixteenth century Rely of Champagne – Thibaud IV le Chansonnier – who, legend has it, returned from the Orient in the course of the Crusades with each the Damask rose and the Chardonnay grape. Comtes de Champagne represents the highest bottling in Taittinger’s vary and the label contains a portrait of Thibaud IV le Chansonnier.
All of the grapes for Comtes de Champagne are sourced from the Côte des Blancs, a ridge working 30km north to south with east-facing vineyards, predominantly planted to Chardonnay (95%). The fruit is sourced from all 5 Grand Cru villages within the Côte des Blancs – Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. This cuvée is made in solely the highest vintages completely from first-press juice solely. A small proportion (5%) of the mix is aged in new oak barrels to create a fragile steadiness of toasted notes within the remaining wine.
Tasting vintages again to 1989 was fascinating to see, not solely how the wine matures but in addition the change in model because the dosage has altered significantly through the years, changing into drier as drinkers’ tastes have modified.
All of the wines confirmed superbly. The night began with the then yet-to-be-released 2012 – which friends have been the primary on the planet to style – but it surely was the 1995 Blanc de Blancs and ’85 Rosé that have been the standout wines of the night time. The rosé was in pristine situation regardless of its age, coming direct from the cellars of Taittinger.
FULL LINE-UP:
- Champagne Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Blanc de Blancs vertical: 2012, 2011, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2000, 1989, 1988
- Champagne Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Rosé vertical: 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 1996
Montrachet Dinner with Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Attending to style a vertical of Montrachet from Comtes Lafon spanning 2017 to 2001 was an simple spotlight of the yr. This was a really uncommon alternative to discover this coveted and uncommon wine by way of the ages.
Treasured for its shortage and revered for its high quality, Lafon’s Montrachet comes from a miniscule plot (simply 31.82 ares) within the Grand Cru – and, unsurprisingly, delivers excellence yr after yr. Secured by collectors instantly on launch, that is the top of white Burgundy.
Critics communicate of a natural minerality, of crustacea, of vivacious florals and bittersweet nuttiness: these wines seize the true essence of complexity in every classic – the wine is a masterclass in singularity.
With an beautiful menu courtesy of world-renowned three-Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, we have been joined by Léa Lafon, fifth-generation member of the Lafon household and a custodian of the famend Meursault-based domaine to speak us by way of this unimaginable vertical.
Comtes Lafon makes one of many richest and strongest Montrachets, possessing each nice focus, but additionally superb freshness that carries it by way of its lengthy ingesting window. Being lucky sufficient to drink by way of 15 vintages actually highlighted the wines’ capability to age.
The highest 2017, 2014 and 2010 vintages have been a masterclass in Chardonnay perfected, but it surely was the supposedly “lesser” years corresponding to 2006 or 2011 that confirmed the sheer class of each the location and the winemaking.
FULL LINE-UP:
- Champagne Henri Giraud, MV07
- Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine des Comtes Lafon vertical: 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017
And A lot, A lot Extra
We additionally explored a property that may be a agency favourite, tasting by way of all of the vintages ever made from Venissa’s distinctive white. This wine is constructed from the Dorona di Venezia grape – a spread that was virtually misplaced to historical past have been it not for Gianluca Bisol’s heritage website on the island of Mazzorbo. Nothing tastes fairly prefer it, and it was a privilege to discover its evolution with Matteo Bisol.
FULL LINE-UP:
- Champagne Henri Giraud, MV07
- Venissa Bianco vertical: 2017, 2016, 2014, 2013, 2011, 2010,
- Venissa Rosso vertical: 2016, 2015, 2012, 2011
- Venissa Vermouth
Spectacular occasions have been additionally hosted outdoors of London.. In Hong Kong, we explored the great Rieslings of the Mosel’s Markus Molitor paired with the best Sichuan dishes from Jing Alley. It was an unforgettable culinary expertise completely pairing Molitor’s exact razor-sharp Rieslings with Chengdu-style Sichuanese delicacies. We additionally held occasions in Portofino, Milan and Piedmont celebrating the good whites of France to a much-appreciative crowd of Italian Francophiles.
Trying into 2023
Final yr’s line-up goes to be arduous to beat however we’re going to do every part we will to outdo ourselves in 2023. Subsequent month we kick off with the primary occasion in London with a vertical tasting of Ch. Ausone – considered one of Saint-Emilion’s best estates. We are going to discover the vintages underneath the tenure of present homeowners, the Vauthier household, which has taken this property to new heights over the past 20 years. Later within the yr, we shall be celebrating the tenure of Bordeaux legend Paul Pontallier with a vertical of Ch. Margaux from his time on the property, overlaying among the best vintages ever made on the First Progress, wines that are an enduring tribute to Pontallier’s legacy. And that’s solely the start – with a lot, rather more within the pipeline together with our first occasions held in the USA.
Maintain an eye fixed out for our full line-up of occasions for 2023, coming quickly. Signal-up to be the primary to listen to when the calendar is launched.
