The cultural historical past of Strasbourg – one among France’s largest cities, and the capital of Alsace – is mirrored in its mixture of architectural kinds. Medieval timber-framed dwellings within the touristy ‘Petite France’ quarter denote a thousand-year hyperlink to the Germanic Holy Roman Empire, as does the Strasbourg cathedral: constructed between 1015 and 1439, it’s thought of an distinctive instance of Gothic structure. After the Thirty Years Conflict, Louis XIV made Alsace a part of the French kingdom, just for it to later change palms twice with Germany within the Nineteenth and twentieth centuries, which explains some spectacular Wilhelmine buildings at Place de la République.
Such architectural selection matches a hodge-podge of the area’s winery soils: from sandstone and marl to limestone and granite. Positioned in northeastern France, Alsace is one among France’s driest and sunniest wine areas; its cool summer season nights and heat days allow the grapes to ripen evenly.
Alsace wine: the info
Space planted About 15,600ha
Appellation AP formally instituted in 1962; AP Alsace accounts for about 70% of manufacturing
Alsace Grand Cru AP Launched in 1975, progressively increasing to 51 websites categorised as such, accounting for about 5% of whole manufacturing
Authorised grand cru grapes Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Riesling, however blends are allowed in Altenberg de Bergheim and Kaefferkopf, and Sylvaner is permitted solely in Zotzenberg
Crémant d’Alsace Glowing made by the standard technique, accounts for about 25% of manufacturing
Vendanges Tardives On wine bottles designates candy wines made out of grapes picked when overripe
Sub-regions Two: the southern Haut-Rhin, which counts 37 grands crus, and the northern Bas-Rhin with 14
Winery visits
Riquewihr city as seen from the Famille Hugel Schoenenbourg winery
A 20-minute drive from Strasbourg, and also you’re in wine nation. Most of the high quality producers are family-owned wineries, opening doorways for wine tastings of their dwelling estates, however you should definitely schedule an appointment beforehand.
Outdated wood casks kind a part of the surroundings at Domaine Frédéric Mochel within the village of Traenheim, west of Strasbourg, the place 14 generations of the household have lived since 1669. In my most up-to-date go to this yr, I met New York importer Bradley Cohen, who fell in love with the wines throughout a Zoom tasting in 2021. Certainly, high Alsace eating places characteristic Domaine Frédéric Mochel wines, and don’t miss the daring and stylish dry Altenberg de Bergbieten Grand Cru Riesling. An expansive tasting room contains snug seating the place the Mochel household provides bread and cheese to go along with the wines.
‘A 20-minute drive from Strasbourg and also you’re in wine nation’
A five-minute drive east from there, Mélanie Pfister of the eponymous property in Dahlenheim counts among the many most gifted Alsace winemakers. The eighth technology of her household to run the property, she crafts dry wines – from very good sparklers to pristine Pinot Gris – which are also featured in high Alsace eating places. Strive her marvellous Engelberg Grand Cru Riesling within the tasting room that after was the 18th-century vinification cellar. If the climate is sunny, make time for a 20-minute stroll from city to the 300m-high south-facing Engelberg winery, the place you not solely see vines on the limestone/clay terroir, but additionally respect an important view of Strasbourg’s cathedral.
Heading south
The gorgeous village of Hunawihr, in southern Alsace. Credit score: Leonid Andronov / Alamy Inventory Picture
An hour’s drive from Dahlenheim is the southern Alsace village of Hunawihr. It was due to Romain Iltis, sommelier at two-star Michelin Villa René Lalique (see under), that I found Domaine Mader’s Rosacker Grand Cru Riesling: the wine was so clear, crisp and pure {that a} week later I visited the property, the place co-owner Jérôme Mader emphasises moist stone minerality. Each single wine that I attempted on the household vineyard was scrumptious, however Rosacker has the good limestone terroir in Alsace: beneficial for local weather change, Mader defined.
Drive one other quarter-hour additional south to the village of Niedermorschwihr to go to some of the celebrated estates in Alsace lately. At Domaine Albert Boxler (+33 [0]3 89 27 11 32), you can’t assist however admire the adjoining – and steep (45°) – granite Sommerberg winery. Oriented immediately south, and rising practically 400m in altitude, it’s the supply of splendid Rieslings which you could style on the property. It’s arduous to beat the gorgeous fragrant minerality and refined citrus notes encountered in these wines. Strive the old-vine Sylvaner and the superb crémant, too.
No go to to vintners in Alsace can be full with out seeing Famille Hugel in Riquewihr, a gorgeous medieval city alongside the Alsace Wine Route. Based in 1639, the property remains to be 100% household owned and is now managed by its twelfth consecutive technology. A variety of wines, together with Alsace Grand Cru, are bought worldwide: extensively recognised for his or her prime quality. Open day-after-day of the yr, the cosy tasting room awaits you on the foot of cobbled streets close to wood-timbered outlets within the village centre. Surrounding winery slopes intensify the allure of the setting. Inside, don’t miss a tour of the cellars, full of enormous oak barrels relationship again to the 18th century. Certainly, the ‘S. Caterine’ cask from 1715 has been named the world’s oldest working cask by the Guinness World Data, in accordance with the property.
And when you missed any wineries in your tour, again in Strasbourg L’Alsace à Boire is devoted to Alsace wine, though I’m stunned that it took so lengthy for the area’s capital to have such a wine bar (it opened in 2021). However now locals and vacationers can uncover most Alsace Grand Cru appellations with out having to go away Strasbourg. There are some glorious glowing wines, too – industrial variations of Alsace crémant might be downright common, however many producers excel. Simply ask the bartender.
(Lengthy) Weekend choices from Strasbourg
After marvelling at its lovely inside, climb the 330 steps up the cathedral of Notre-Dame de Strasbourg, the sixth-tallest church on the earth.
Close to European establishment buildings – Strasbourg is headquarters for the Council of Europe and hosts month-to-month EU Parliament periods – go to the Parc de l’Orangerie, town’s oldest park, with sprawling floral grounds surrounding the Pavillon Joséphine, a advantageous instance of early Nineteenth-century neo-classical structure. Go to the mini zoo, picnic close to the lake and waterfall or simply take a calming stroll – and even invigorating jog.
Wine bar urge? Strasbourg’s Unwell Vino on a barge provides a contemporary, enjoyable atmosphere – the identify refers back to the Rhine tributary. Take a deep dive into Alsace wine at L’Alsace à Boire (see above).
Lease a automobile and go to wineries alongside the 170km-long picturesque Alsace Wine Route, however ensure you e book any visits upfront.
Store at Beauvillé, well-known producer of luxurious tablecloths and family linens, situated in Ribeauvillé, the place you’ll additionally discover celebrated wine producer Domaine Trimbach.
Your Alsace tackle e book
Lodging
Hôtel Cour du Corbeau, Strasbourg
Very near the cathedral in a setting that dates again to the sixteenth century, this four- star lodge combines Center Ages allure with trendy facilities. Visiting buddies give rave opinions.
Hôtel Léonor, Strasbourg
Opened final yr, take pleasure in casually stylish (and comfy) rooms in what was a central police station in Strasbourg. The elegant façade is a historic monument. Dine on the lodge restaurant, managed by the group from the distinctive two-star Michelin La Fourchette des Ducs.
Les Haras, Strasbourg
Conveniently near the Petite France quarter, it was the 18th-century Nationwide Stud Farm and Equestrian Academy, however now impresses with fashionable rooms and beautiful design. Dine at its brasserie, the place I usually have enterprise lunches for high quality and value.
Villa René Lalique, Wingen-sur-Moder
Well worth the 45-minute drive northwest from Strasbourg: chill out in luxurious rooms fitted with Lalique crystal decor. Constructed by René Lalique in 1920, the home has been refurbished as a boutique lodge. Dine on the very good two-star Michelin restaurant, and don’t miss the Lalique museum!
Eating places
La Fourchette des Ducs, Obernai
Initially constructed by Ettore Bugatti, founding father of the eponymous automobile firm, to obtain clients in acceptable model, the beautiful inside mirrors peerless delicacies and wine at this two-star Michelin restaurant, perfect for dinner after having trekked via southern Alsace wine nation.
Le Cerf, Marlenheim
French newspaper Le Monde calls the standard choucroute of this one-star Michelin restaurant probably the most profitable in France, to which I can attest, in addition to to its glorious wine checklist. A 20-minute drive west from Strasbourg, it is usually handy for its four-star lodge, with a small spa together with sauna and hammam.
Les Plaisirs Gourmands, Schiltigheim
Pleasingly economically priced one-star Michelin on this Strasbourg suburb that’s recognized for its jazz live shows with worldwide stars. €380 for a scrumptious six-course lunch for 3, together with two bottles of wine and suggestions.
Mademoiselle 10, Strasbourg
Informal atmosphere within the metropolis centre, with a view of the Unwell tributary, that is usually a best choice for diplomatic lunches. Strive the €45 lunch menu.
For extra particulars of the Alsace eating scene, peruse Panos Kakavaitos’ information to the area’s finest bars and eating places.
Outlets & markets
Les Boutiques de l’Aubette options outlets at Strasbourg’s Place Kléber in a splendid 18th-century constructing. Though bombed within the Franco-Prussian struggle and reconstructed a number of occasions since, a extra definitive 2008 renovation has made it a Strasbourg procuring spotlight, in distinction to the quite ugly Les Halles close by…
Typically known as mini-Venice, as a result of the Unwell tributary predominates, Strasbourg’s Petite France quarter is invaded by vacationers. However it’s properly value visiting for its medieval structure, charming slim paths, and eating places, outlets and boutiques, from Le Goût du Terroir cheese store to the stunning Galerie Pascale Froessel. Snack on tarte flambée, washed down with Riesling – or Fischer beer.
Strasbourg Christmas market
The month-long festive occasion (Le Christkindelsmärik) begins in late November and includes a magnificent Christmas tree and ubiquitous vacation decorations that by no means fail to enchant. Between sips of spicy scorching mulled wine, take care to keep away from vacationer traps among the many momentary wood vacation kiosks that dot town. If you happen to like foie gras, purchase the superb Champagne and pepper foie gras on the stand in entrance of the beautiful Maison Kammerzell in Place de la Cathédrale.
get there
Strasbourg is the closest airport. From Paris, take the high-speed TGV prepare working every day to Strasbourg, with a median journey time of round two hours.
Credit score: Maggie Nelson
Alsace wines: the grapes
Riesling is king, however kinds – and terroirs – range. Both approach, dry Riesling from high quality producers matches any nice dry white on the earth.
Gewurztraminer is barely on the sweeter facet, with low acidity, at its finest conveying exuberant lychee, rose and ginger aromas. Pairs properly with robust cheese or spicy meals.
Pinot Gris tends to be, because the French say, entre deux chaises, as even ‘dry’ it usually has sweetish overtones and often a thicker texture than Riesling.
Sylvaner might be very good from older vines that lend depth to what extra often is gentle dry white.
Pinot Blanc tends to be gentle and quite delicate – and is commonly underrated.
Muscat, when vinified dry, pairs properly with white asparagus, or loved by itself as an aperitif.
For reds, Lucas Alessandri of the Strasbourg Léonor lodge restaurant Mélanie Pfister praises Pinot Noir. I’ve been sceptical, however local weather change appears to be ‘serving to’. By no means have I loved such advantageous Alsace Pinot Noir as in recent times, however I might keep away from the home reds at most areas. As Burgundy costs scrape ever greater skies, strive Pinot Noir from estates akin to Domaine Albert Mann and Mélanie Pfister, for instance. I had an excellent Domaine Boeckel, Oberpfoeller 2019 at Léonor that value solely €46 a bottle, restaurant value.
