Why we determined to deal with the business’s lack of transparency on additive use
If this headline has given you pause, it ought to. In any case, 100% agave tequila historically includes of three issues: cooked agave, water, and yeast (earlier than getting old). However more and more, some producers are counting on components, or “abocantes” as they’re known as within the business, not simply to equalize taste and colour variations from batch to batch, however to make up their complete profile. Tremendous environment friendly manufacturing strategies that have a tendency to supply a high-proof (as excessive as 87% abv), impartial spirit are one of many fundamental causes. This vodka-like tequila then needs to be watered down (to 40% abv), leaving it with out the signature traits we’d search for in tequila, such because the scent and style of cooked agave.
(We’ve talked about components intimately earlier than, and the way they’re permitted beneath the regulation in the event that they don’t exceed 1% in quantity, so that you would possibly need to evaluate that article if you should.)
The elevated reliance on components has us involved on just a few fronts. To begin with, agaves are superb crops that provide an unbelievable number of aromas and flavors when their fermentable sugars are become alcohol. So, it appears a rattling disgrace to make use of these agaves to make a impartial spirit. (Why not simply make vodka or grain alcohol?)
Additionally, agaves want a minimum of 5 or 6 years to mature and produce the extent of sugar that conventional producers require. Producers who use diffusers, acid-thermal hydrolysis, yeast accelerants, and column stills —the tremendous environment friendly industrial methodology we referred to above— are capable of extract extra sugar from the agaves than conventional strategies, so the age of the agaves just isn’t as essential to them. They’ll harvest them at three or 4 years, which disrupts the agave development cycle for conventional producers. It’s because immature agaves don’t but include sufficient sugar for conventional manufacturing tools to extract.*
A jimador for Tequila Fortaleza harvests mature agave crops in a subject in El Arenal, Jalisco. Agave is exclusive as a result of it produces a posh spirit even with out getting old (like whisky) or added botanicals (like gin).
And since diffuser producers use a sped-up course of with immature agaves they usually want components to create a taste profile. These components normally don’t scent/style like cooked agave, though they could be labelled as “Agave Observe #307560” or “Agave Observe #208344”, for instance. Customers of our app usually describe these synthetic aromas as “pretend fruit”, “pretend pine”, vanilla, cake batter, flowers, and botanicals harking back to gin. Components for aged merchandise normally consist of additional vanilla, caramel, and in additional excessive incidents, cake batter. Typically additionally they add sweeteners, like cane sugar, agave syrup, or aspartame-like excessive depth compounds. Glycerin is utilized in all sorts of tequila to provide the product a thicker mouth really feel and sometimes cowl up for minor defects.
Customers who should not tequila aficionados usually like these merchandise as a result of they don’t style “sturdy” and don’t have any “burn”. And let’s face it — additive makers know what us people like and so they design these fruity, vanilla, and candy profiles to enchantment to our tastes. Customers who like these merchandise aren’t responsible. In any case, they normally don’t know that the tequila they’re ingesting doesn’t resemble an actual, conventional tequila.
Take, as an example, the latest reputation of “cristalinos” in Mexico, which is now taking foot within the U.S. Few drinkers of those merchandise notice that with a view to strip away the entire colour from an aged tequila**, almost all of the aromas and flavors are stripped away as nicely. When filtering is that this heavy, the one manner so as to add taste and aroma again in is thru the usage of components.
And herein lies a bigger downside:
What if the recognition and broad advertising of industrialized merchandise that depend on components lead customers to imagine that tequila ought to scent and style like one thing that it’s not? What occurs to the producers who nonetheless make conventional and pure merchandise? Will we lose them?
We’d additionally wish to spur larger recognition that tequila is a pure product, with terroir, and seasonal modifications in parts like agave, water, yeast, temperature, and myriad different environmental elements which are a part of the method. Tequila customers shouldn’t anticipate every batch to be an identical. The extra we are able to do to get this message out, the extra understanding we’ll have concerning the function that components play.
Additional añejo samples at Tequila Tequileño, which is confirmed additive-free. Shade variations produced by completely different barrels are regular, however because of the expectation of consistency in tequila, some producers equalize colours utilizing components.
Components had been initially allowed in order that producers may meet an unrealistic expectation of “consistency”, an expectation that’s not demanded of different pure merchandise, akin to wine. Now they’re getting used for a unique motive — to make up all the profile of a product. That’s why we imagine that additive use ought to a minimum of be disclosed on the label for what they’re: added colour, taste, aroma, and texture, though they don’t exceed the 1.0% by quantity authorized restrict. Fashionable components are extremely concentrated, which suggests a really, little or no bit can go a good distance. Merely put, that outdated 1% restrict leaves loads of room to do greater than slight consistency changes.
Admittedly, there’s a place out there for each industrialized and conventional tequilas, however we expect customers ought to know the distinction and have the ability to select for themselves.
We imagine {that a} motion towards extra detailed labeling and transparency is required within the tequila business — and would support it. In any case, there’s been a bigger motion amongst each meals and beverage firms to be open and trustworthy about what persons are consuming and ingesting, and the response has been overwhelmingly optimistic. Tequila producers may do the identical by altering the NORMA, or official guidelines of the business.
We’re not anti-additives, or in opposition to industrialized manufacturing strategies. (Each serve a reputable objective.) We’re not saying that manufacturers that use components are doing something improper. We simply suppose that the business simply must do a greater job of labeling.
Now we have even heard from manufacturers that needed to be extra clear, however had been prevented from doing so.
One tequila model tried to incorporate the textual content “no components” on their label, solely to have it rejected by U.S. regulatory authorities. (Presumably as a result of different manufacturers with out the label can be known as into query.) One other tried to label their tequila as containing components, however obtained refused by their distillery. So, we all know there are business gamers that see the worth of being trustworthy with their customers. So, till the principles change, we need to assist.
This is the reason we determined to launch our Additive-Free Affirmation Program. You’ll be able to learn all concerning the course of, and the merchandise which have already handed. However we needed to take a second to elucidate our personal motivations, as tequila lovers and champions of conventional manufacturers.
Additive use is a vital consideration amongst members of the Tequila Matchmaker neighborhood. That’s why we felt it was essential to verify the “no components” declare ourselves earlier than making use of that label to any product in our database. That is our course of, we don’t declare that it’s good, however it’s a nice begin that requires transparency from taking part manufacturers and distilleries.
We notice that our opinions on these issues aren’t as protected as the info and information we normally attempt to ship. We additionally notice that we are going to take some (or lots) of warmth for this program, however we’re prepared. Our intentions are for the very best, for the tequila that we love, and the business that we’re honored to participate in.
Salud!
-Scarlet & Grover
P.S. Wish to be part of our motion? Share this story and encourage your mates to assist transparency in tequila labeling.
*In conventional manufacturing processes, agave is cooked utilizing steam with fibers current. Throughout the cooking course of, the sugars then bond with the fibers. Extraction by way of tahona, curler mill, or screw mill can’t extract 100% of these fermentable sugars as a result of some stay caught to the fibers. Diffusers, however, take away the fibers earlier than cooking and may due to this fact achieve almost 100% effectivity in the course of the extraction course of. Because of this, they will make use of youthful agaves which have much less sugar.
**There are exceptions when not all the pieces is filtered out, however that is uncommon.
