Capedonich within the Nineties, with Glen Grant within the background
Caperdonich – a misplaced Speysider with a smoky secret
The historical past of whisky in Scotland is plagued by the names of closed distilleries. Whereas a few of them have risen in fame since their closing, some have continued in obscurity, and some have carried out so undeservedly. One which falls most undoubtedly into that ultimate class is Glen Grant #2, aka Caperdonich.
Caperdonich: The Beginnings
Caperdonich, then referred to as Glen Grant #2, was in-built 1898 within the city of Rothes – the center of Speyside. It was constructed by Main James Grant, the third-generation proprietor of Glen Grant, at a handy web site throughout the highway from his present distillery. Its objective was easy: to supply extra of the vastly well-liked Glen Grant spirit that was in nice demand world wide.
Sadly, the timing was horrible. 1898 was additionally the 12 months of the Pattison crash, a monetary disaster due partially to hypothesis throughout the business (usually attributed solely to the eponymous brothers, who have been merely a part of a wider downside), which led to an enormous drop in demand for whisky throughout Scotland.
Glen Grant #2 soldiered on for just a few years, however by 1902 was very a lot surplus to necessities and closed down. An inauspicious begin for the distillery, closing after a mere 4 years of manufacturing.
Caperdonich: A New Hope
By 1965, the Scotch whisky market had modified past recognition. The times of the Pattisons and distillery closures have been gone and a booming worldwide market was demanding huge quantities of whisky. Glen Grant was driving excessive throughout Europe – particularly in Italy the place it had turn out to be the primary single malt, an honour it nonetheless holds at this time. Its homeowners wanted extra spirit to satisfy demand so turned their eyes to the constructing over the highway: a distillery initially created to make extra Glen Grant and able to do the identical as soon as once more. Manufacturing resumed.
In 1977 Glen Grant #2 was lastly given its personal id and was renamed Caperdonich, a mere 80 years after it began making whisky. In the identical 12 months, Caperdonich and its elder sibling have been bought to drinks large Seagram’s, changing into an essential aspect within the creation of the corporate’s iconic blends, together with Chivas Regal.
Seagram’s: A Cautionary Story
In the case of whisky firms to not emulate, Seagram’s comes near the highest of the record. With a historical past going again to the founding of the Waterloo distillery in Ontario, Canada in 1857, it grew over the next century to be one of many greatest drinks firms on this planet, taking the highest spot by the Nineties.
Nonetheless, the corporate started to diversify its pursuits and a foray into the world of TV, movie and music was a step too far. In 2001, the drinks a part of the corporate was bought off to Diageo and Pernod Ricard.
Among the many items of the as soon as large Seagram’s empire acquired by Pernod was the Chivas Group, together with each Glen Grant and Caperdonich. Nonetheless, Caperdonich was, but once more, surplus to necessities and closed in 2002.
In an ironic flip, the distillery web site was bought in 2010 to still-maker Forsyth’s, who tore it right down to construct a brand new workshop – they wanted more room to make distillery gear because of the increase within the whisky business and the constructing of recent distilleries world wide.
Smoky Speysiders
Whereas in recent times we’ve seen a a number of breaking down of the stylistic obstacles between Scotch whisky areas – Islay whiskies aren’t all the time smoky, Lowland whiskies aren’t all the time mild and floral, and Speysiders are very a lot an eclectic bunch – it’s removed from a contemporary phenomenon. Giant whisky firms – like Seagrams – all the time want extra smoky whisky for his or her blended releases, and when the extra conventional producers can’t make sufficient, they flip to different elements of their portfolio. Caperdonich, created to make unpeated, mild and fruity Glen Grant model whisky, is a kind of distilleries – again earlier than it closed, it made peated whisky.
This model wasn’t created to be launched by itself, however the of us at Chivas Brothers – the little bit of Pernod Ricard that appears after its Scotch whiskies – haven’t solely discovered some casks of smoky Caperdonich, however launched them as a part of the corporate’s Secret Speyside vary.
Study extra in regards to the Secret Speyside whiskies >
Caperdonich 18 12 months Previous Peated
The Secret Speyside assortment was launched in 2017 as a set of 15 whiskies from Longmorn, Glen Keith, Braes of Glenlivet (aka Braeval) and Caperdonich. Initially unique to journey retail, it was promised that they might ultimately make it to the broader market. I bought to strive the peated Caperdonich 18 at Heathrow shortly after launch, however I by no means anticipated it to see it on our cabinets.
I used to be not solely unsuitable, however Caperdonich 18 12 months Previous Peated is our Malt of the Month for July 2022 and is presently £110 – £10 off.
Purchase Caperdonich 18 12 months Previous >
Nostril: Orchard fruit with a contact of gravelly minerality and smoke – smoky chimneys in a chilly, stony nation village. Light char notes develop, with waxy apples and aromatic wooden following: sandalwood and a contact of musky incense. Fruit builds: pears, apricots and sherbet lemons.
Palate: Delicate and earthy peat smoke with some cracked stone minerality following. Darkish liquorice and anise notes construct beneath, with fruity darkish chocolate and delicate spice on high. A darkish and zingy mixture of chocolate brownies, lemon Lockets and earthy peat are joined by meadow flowers and barley sugar notes, all with a background of aromatic smoke. Tarry touches develop with a while within the glass.
End: Earthy spice hangs round, with a fast flash of menthol fading away to go away chocolate and barrel char.
This does precisely what you’d count on from the title – it’s a smoky Speysider. It takes the extra conventional Speyside character of soppy fruit and spice, and provides a layer of wealthy smoke. The 18 years in wooden have helped the peat settle down and bolster the fruit, however it’s nonetheless no shrinking violet – layers of peat run via the palate. An important dram for smoke followers on the lookout for one thing a bit extra elegant.
You will discover the peated 18 12 months outdated and extra whiskies from the distillery on The Whisky Trade’s Caperdonich Single Malt Scotch Whisky web page.
